It's an Iron Chef kind of week for us at Phillyist. On Sunday night, we watched Jose Garces rightful place as the Next Iron Chef—something we think has been a long time coming, as we suspect the Iron Chef producers have had their eye on Garces since he took out Bobby Flay as a challenger on the show last year.
Now, we can give you the lowdown on Chew Man Chu, the new restaurant in Symphony House (next to Girasole, in the old Du Jour space) helmed by former Iron Chef America challenger Tyson Wong Ophaso. We're happy to report that even though Ophaso couldn't beat Iron Chef Morimoto on TV, he's putting out some solid Asian fare on South Broad. Chew Man Chu has a sleek, lounge-y look, but don't let that fool you into thinking there isn't some solid food being delivered by the kitchen.
We were especially taken with Chef Ophaso's oxtail dumpling dish—a deep bowl of four delicious, perfectly textured dumplings in a white wine and black vinegar sauce. The oxtail is mixed with crab meat and pork, and although the flavor of the oxtail falls a bit to the background, it's definitely one of the more solid dumpling dishes we've had in the city. Our companion tried out the scallion roti. Chew Man Chu's roti fluffier than what we'd been used to from other Southeast Asian breads, and it didn't deliver much flavor on its own; that's okay, though, because it provides a great means of consuming Ophaso's house-made soy and chili sauces. The soy sauce was especially out of this world, with a nice sweetness to it and some kind of spice that we couldn't quite place. (We're guessing cumin, but can't really be sure.) Seriously, the soy sauce may have been the star of the evening—and that's not a knock on the other food we had, but really just a comment on how damn good the sauce was. We could drink that stuff.
Chef Ophaso's crispy Chinese salad, which came in a mound for the table was perhaps a little similar to what you might find at Continental, provided a nice palate cleanser. We especially appreciate that the salad was properly dressed—enough to enhance the flavor without drenching the crisp vegetables. That set us up for some very flavorful entrees—maybe too flavorful, in fact. We tried the black pepper sirloin steak, which was cooked to a perfect medium rare, just the way this Phillyist likes it—and would have asked for it, if we'd been asked at all how we wanted the meat cooked. We could envision someone who like their meat a bit more done than us having a look of horror if this thing was set down in front of them. But for us, it was just right. And it was one giant piece of steak. Fortunately, we were able to get help from our dining companions in almost finishing it. Almost.
We also got to try the pad see ew, a noodle bowl with flank steak, egg, broccoli, garlic, and bean sprouts. Or at least that's what we're told, because this bowl was so spicy, the chili was all we could taste, and the heat murdered our taste buds so that we couldn't really detect the flavor of, well, anything in the bowl. Fortunately, the pad see ew (and why would you put a dish on your menu with the name "ew" in it, even if it is the proper name) was the only real misstep of the evening. There were some confusing aspects of the dinner, not the least of which was why Chew Man Chu serves its fried rice as a course of its own, and after the entrees no less. We're not even sure whether the rice was any good; we had a couple nibbles to calm our mouths down after the pad see ew, but didn't really take note of it one way or the other.
And even though we were stuffed from the dumplings and meat, we had to find room for Chef Ophaso's house-made donuts, which were perfectly sweet and delicious, with a surprise bit of chocolate hidden in the center of the cinnamon-ish ball of goodness. They were good enough that our table asked for seconds despite our being very full.
As with any new restaurant, Chew Man Chu has some kinks to work out. But if it does, it will certainly become one of the city's hottest pre-theatre spots.
Quick Nosh:
- So now that Jose Garces is officially an Iron Chef, we know you're eager to check him out in action as one of the culinary
menpersons of steel. Well, mark your calendars for Sunday, January 17, 2010, at 9 p.m. That's when Garces's first Iron Chef America battle as an Iron Chef will air. - Plan on indulging in the ages-old tradition known as Black Friday? Afterward, bring a receipt to Avalon Restaurant in West Chester that shows you were out stimulating the economy with your credit card, and get one free entree with the purchase of a second, up to an $18 value.
- Going to the Thanksgiving parade and planning to be too tired to cook after? Restaurant 13 at the Marriott has you covered with a Thanksgiving buffet offered from 11 a.m.–5 p.m. and a family-style dinner thereafter. Information and reservations at 215-625-2900.
- 10 Arts Chef de Cuisine Jennifer Carroll (you know her from Top Chef) and Pastry Chef Monica Glass provide two reasons to get thee to the Ritz: Carroll's specialty holiday menus (available for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Eve), and Glass's hot chocolate and cupcake duo, available in the lounge every afternoon starting November 27, as well as for dessert with lunch or dinner at the restaurant.



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