*Yes, it's Wednesday. But we needed some extra time to prepare our new Foodsday Tuesday feature, Quick Nosh, which will feature snack-sized servings of food news that we couldn't dedicate a full post to. Check out the first one at the bottom of this post. Got a Philly food tip? Send 'em over!
As an undergrad, I did my best to avoid the corner of 38th and Ludlow, then the home of Brownie's, one of the cheaper options available to Penn students looking to drink themselves into bad situations. I begin this post with that statement not to wax nostalgic about college bars I did and didn't like, but rather because Brownie's isn't there anymore. What is there, after the closure of another failed bar, is The Blockley Pourhouse, a gastropubby music venue named for University City's former name, before the neighborhood fell (rose?) to widespread Penntrification.
In many ways, The Blockely is quite a departure from its sink-or-swim college bar antecedents (a solid menu; clean bathrooms), but the space could only distance itself from Brownie's so much (Bud Light on tap; echoey, cavernous space). In a city full of intimate, quirky, bars with solid food that feel packed to the gills with crowds of forty, The Blockely manages to feel completely vacant with a crowd twice that size. No walls have been added to break up the former dance club's space—possibly because The Blockley intends to be a live music venue with good sight lines—and so standing in the middle of the bar feels like standing in an empty (but very, very loud) room. The space is problematic for more than just its size, though: the restaurant's website makes much of the building's macabre history as a "mental institution," and the renovated space tries to allude to that with its concrete floors and the heavy door that separates the main bar from the adjoining fine-dining-restaurant-to-be (formerly the home of Brownie's second, smaller stage) and the "Blockley-as-a-microcosm" faceless photographs on the bathroom doors—but everything feels too new. Plus, the communal-style dining tables (perhaps meant to allude to a hospital cafeteria?) feature very deep picnic-style benches that require quite a bit of maneuvering to sit on, especially when one end is pushed against the wall.
But enough of the space; what of the menu? Our meal was off to a dismal start when our waitress told us what was on tap: for a place called The Blockley Pourhouse, we were expecting more microbrews. Instead we were greeted with University City standards (the aforementioned Bud Light; Guiness) and microbrews-in-name-only (Sam Adams). There were a few local brews, sure, but nothing surprising or unexpected or beer snobby. A surprise amuse bouche was presented with our beers: foie gras with slightly overpowering cherries. Maybe I'm in the minority here, but I like my foie to taste like foie, and the perfect texture of Blockley's offering (soon to be a featured app at the previously mentioned restaurant next door) was drowned in sweetness.
Things were rescued substantially, though, when our appetizers (called "Snacks" on the menu) appeared on the table. The Jerked Chicken "Nuggets" ($6) were the perfect combination of smoky and spicy, served with a slightly sweet, slightly sour pineapple chutney that tied everything on the plate together, and the Lobster Pierogies ($8), while not all that lobster-y, were all you could ever want from a pierogie without going up to the Polish restaurants in Port Richmond.
Of our entrees ("Platters"), one was a great success, one a surprising failure: the Tender Flemish Style Beef Short Ribs ($15) were certainly tender, and more than flavorful. Cooked to perfect shreddiness and resting on a bed of creamy potatoes and wilted greens, I was grateful for this plate of comfort food goodness after having taken a red-eye into Philly the night before. (Although what exactly made it Flemish, I'm not sure.) But as close to perfect as this dish was, the Crispy Organic Fried Chicken ($13) was equally disappointing. In a departure from what's listed on The Blockley's website, our half chicken was served with collards and mac and cheese, the two successes on the plate (though I tend to prefer my mac and cheese a little less dry and a little more peppered). But the chicken... Oh, the chicken just made me sad! It had so much promise: authentically crispy skin; nice, moist meat. But there was one problem: it didn't taste like anything. And if I'm going to blow my day's allocation of calories on fried chicken, it had better be damn good. There were no telltale signs of traditional Southern seasonings in the breading or the chicken: no cayenne, no onion salt, not even any pepper. It was like the chicken had been dunked in a bag of King Arthur and sent to the deep fryer as-is. Only the inexplicable presence of siracha on our table (there's nothing Asian-inspired on the menu) saved the too-generous portion of chicken from being a total waste.
The Blockley has a lot of promise, but it needs to finish finding itself before the Penn students return in the fall and take the space over for themselves. Will it be a brewpub with a stage? A concert venue with a menu? A place to go catch a Phils game and drink a domestic? I'm certainly curious to see what's next—especially if they start seasoning their fried chicken.
Quick Nosh:
- McGillin's Olde Ale House (13th and Drury, Centery City) will be introducing a special house IPA, debuting August 4, 150 days before the bar begins celebrating its 150th year. McGillin's 150 IPA (produced by Stoudt's) will premiere at the "Party of the Century-And-A-Half," complete with an appearance by Joe Sixpack.
- Hot Philly Chefs Jose Garces and Marc Vetri are joining forces to co-chair Share Our Strength®’s Taste of the Nation, a fundraising event to "take a bite out of childhood hunger." Other stars of the Philly food world will participate at the August 17 event at the Lowes Hotel. Tickets are $75.
- Speaking of Chef Garces, the lounge at his latest restaurant, Chifa (7th and Chestnut, Washington Square West), continues to host live Latin American music every Thursday night in July. Up tomorrow: Mike Mesa and Dave Tatasciore / Afrocyberdelia. Plus, a $5 menu till midnight!
- The Philadelphia Menupages blog is now Grub Street Philadelphia. Add them to your RSS. Now.
- Foobooz has updates on the anticipated opening of several organic-but-by-no-means-healthy Elevation Burger franchises in the area.
- Straight from the owner's mouth, food is finally coming to The Institute (12th and Brandywine, Loft District). Helmed by Chef Brian Bosch, formerly of Parc, the menu (debuting Friday, July 24) promises to be Puerto Rican-fusion and will include a sizeable selection of vegetarian and vegan options. Meal Ticket has more.




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