Foodsday Tuesday: Going Costal

Adding to the list of Philadelphia dining establishments coming out with recession-busting prix fixe menus is Old City's part-kitschy, part-lovely Positano Coast, the Aldo Lamberti restaurant helmed by the restaurateur's son, Pippo. Their "3 for $33" holiday menu, offered Sunday through Thursday evenings through December 30, features some of the restaurant's most popular appetizers, entrees, and desserts—and I was able to sample some of the dishes last week.

Noticeably absent from the prix fixe menu is Positano's acclaimed crudo, their Italian-style sashimi, so we decided to order up the yellowtail tartare before diving into the menu. The fish was flawlessly fresh, but the tartare lacked the acid it needed to drive the fish's flavor home—just a squeeze of lemon or lime before the plate hit the table would have sufficed. It was a near miss for us, but fortunately, our only miss of the evening as we moved on to the prix fixe menu.

First up from the appetizer menu: the bison carpaccio and the grilled tiger prawns (pictured above). Served wafer-thin and wrapped around kohlrabi atop a red onion compote, the bison was practically perfect—practically, because I wanted a lot more of it! The dieter in me welcomed the lean bison as an alternative to traditional steak; the Texan in me was more than happy to see a less-conventional preparation of the meat. The large prawns, served head-on, were quite a treat as well, if a little difficult to eat because of the effort required in removing their shells. Almost buried under a light mizuna salad, the smoky grilled prawns mixed well with the bright, slightly acidic greens, all tied together by a light drizzle of almond-oregano pesto. Though not as sublime as the bison carpaccio, I'd happily eat these prawns again... and again and again and again.

Our entree course was similarly satisfying. The duck breast was seared to medium-rare perfection and, while slightly sweet with only the Hugs for Puppies-angering strawberry-foie gras emulsion, was one of those proteins best eaten in combination with everything else on the plate. The sharpness of the baby turnips and the nearly melted pearl onions combined with the duck and its decadent sauce to cut the sugar and stimulate four of the five different taste bud zones. Only "bitter" wasn't invited to the party. The pan-seared skate, while not as complex in its flavor profile as the duck, looked like it belonged at Positano Coast. Simply prepared beneath a carrot and leek salad drizzled with a caper-tomato vinaigrettes, the combination of hot-and-cold may not be the perfect December dish, but the restaurant's goal is to make you feel like it's summer on an Italian beach, and if I was vacationing at Positano, this is the kind of dish I'd be craving.

Accompanying our savory dishes were two wines recommended to us by our very enthusiastic, if slightly nervous, waiter, Damian. Served by the 9 oz. quartino, the white, smoky-not-oaky Falanghina and the peppery red Aglianico were the perfect compliments to our meal, with the red proving even to compliment the seafood dishes. (The white, while excellent with the prawns and skate, did not fare as well against the duck, however.) With dessert, I received a rather full pour of Moscato d'Asti to compliment my smooth gorgonzola plate with toasted walnuts, bread, and a candied pear sauce. The cheese-to-bread-to-pear ratio was a bit off (I still had a healthy amount of cheese left once the bread and sauce was exhausted), but the flavors combined nicely for a light dessert that was seasoned just right for the holiday season. We also had a serving of tiramisu—historically not one of my favorites, personally, but I was only one half of the dining party—that was light enough on the coffee flavor (and indeed, overall) that I had to take a second forkful just to confirm that I did, in fact, just enjoy a bite of the traditional dessert.

At the end of the night, we left the restaurant over-full and completely satisfied. For the price (before alcohol, tax, and tip), Positano Coast's 3 for $33 is truly one of the best deals in the city. Go. Now. Before the promotion ends.

Photo by author, with apologies—she left the real camera at home and had to use the iPhone.