March 19, 2008
Un"b"elievably Good BYOB: Salento
Upon entering Salento, a relatively new Italian BYOB, one immediately gets the feeling of warmth and hospitality. A sincere 'hello' and 'welcome' is quickly followed by 'table for … and do you have a reservation?' Efficiency and kindness are two very important traits for a hospitality–based operation to have (read Danny Meyer's Setting the Table to learn more about that).
Once seated, your waitress or waiter opens your bottle of wine, asks if you need water, while in tandem placing some crusty bread on the table, accompanied by a glistening shallow dish of olive oil which is authentically Italian.
The specials are rattled off by memory—which is impressive, because it means there is constant communication of culinary knowledge between the front and back of the house and everyone understands the important nature of the positive dining experience from beginning to end. After the descriptions, one is left with a plethora of choices to mull over.
Another item worthy of note is that upon first glance we didn't find a typo in the menu. For us, the bar is immediately lowered when the restaurant serving "arugola" or "panceta" can't take the time to learn the correct spelling or pay attention to details.
Of the insalate and antipasti, the grilled radicchio with gorgonzola and reduced balsamic ($8.50) and the carciofi (crispy pan-seared artichokes—$10.00) are must-haves. If by chance you happen to dine there and they serve a special that incorporates homemade mozzarella, jump at the chance to get it. We don't think they make it in-house, but wherever they get it from, it is the consistency of creamy, velvety butter, flavored with a subtle, salty finish. It is almost spreadable, and it is truly to die for.
Pasta takes center stage with Ciceri e Tria (pasta and chick peas—$15.00). A simple but very traditional dish a friend from the Salento region of Italy makes quite often for us when visiting. Another traditional dish that is served all over Florence is cinghiale, or wild boar. At Salento it is served in a thick, meaty ragu (but not too much; Italians don't like to drown their pasta in a sea of sauce) poured over perfectly al dente, homemade pappardelle ($16.00). The only problem we found with the gnocchi was the portion was huge and we would have liked more of the pan seared creamy garlic cloves/prizes found throughout the dish ($16.00).
Enjoyable secondi courses include a grilled butterfish and shrimp with roasted potato and broccoli ($23.00) and a pork tenderloin with pancetta, potato cake and brussel sprouts ($18.00).
Desserts are a very nice way to round out any dinner, and Salento is no exception to that rule. We found that the silky, flavorful gelatos and the panna cotta were universally loved and consistent each time we went.
Salento
2216 Walnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19103
(215) 568-1314
Image courtesy of Joanne Hudson






