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Tinto, referring to the red wine often served in abundance at tapas eateries in Northern Spain, is wonderful. Not just because we love Amada. Not just because, despite its drab, low-ceiling, somewhat claustrophobic décor, the attention to detail is still there and appreciated. Not just because the wait staff cannot only memorize, but eloquently explain, the concept as well as the entire wine and cocktail list. Or lastly, not just because the food is perfectly cooked, seasoned and well balanced in both taste and texture. It’s because it helps elevate the Philly food scene to where it belongs by using all of the aforementioned ingredients of a successful dining experience recipe. Revered by Food and Wine, Jose Garces is recognized as a maverick Chef in this area and has been a local darling since El Vez. The Michael Klein sighting last night confirmed it even further.
Some would argue it’s pricey. It is. But, based on the old adage, "you get what you pay for," Garces isn’t offering pad thai from the Pad Thai Shack or mussels from Monks (two local establishments that are also extremely delicious and worthy of recognition for being wonderful – just not on the same level or at the same price points). Nor does he have a staff of a bunch of 18-year-olds looking to kill time at a shore-located summer fish shack before going back to college. Perfection and efficiency cost money, and if done correctly, it’s money well spent.
The herbed cheese phyllo cigar amuse was clumsy and messy to eat, but still tasted very good. They are also considered ‘gifts from the kitchen’ and one should never really look a gift horse in the mouth. Recommended menu items include the monte enebro ($7), an earthy, musty goat’s milk cheese, and the authentic jamon serrano plate ($7) followed by the moules basquaise ($13) which is delivered in an individual cast-iron pot that holds the mussels floating in a traditional chorizo, tomato and red pepper sauce with a side of fries sitting atop lemon aioli. A dishe that was flavorful, but may not make the cut on the next visit, was the pollo pintxos ($7). Nice presentation, chicken skewers in shotglasses, but too much demi, which made it way too salty and truffle oil, which makes it way to common because truffle oil is an overdone, overused, tired ingredient. Mavericks should live up to the name and use bona-fide real truffles (but that’s not basque). The marmitako, a seared toro skewer with bonito chowder ($22) is a bit pricey, but worth the cost in terms of ingredients used. The fava beans ($6) also don’t make it because favas are so seasonally delicious all they really need is maybe a teeny bit of pancetta and olive oil, served hot or blanched and tossed with some greens, grana padano and lemon, served cold.
Nothing, absolutely nothing, prepared us for one of the most memorable, go-back-for-more-because-it’s-dreamt-about, taste sensations since his croquettes. The chorizo de Pamplona montadito ($6) is a combination of chorizo, chocolate, oranges and bread and may have brought actually brought on a tear of joy. Add a couple of glasses of mencia ($10), or a bottle of rioja and it’s go time.
Tinto
114 South 20th Street
(215) 665-9150
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I agree! Easily the most pleasurable dining experience I've ever had. Especially since I had the chance to eat downstairs. The lobster mousse/potato crisp dish was also out of this world.
I can't wait until they expand the space this summer.